The Nudie Jeans Guide to Selvage Denim

To claim that we love selvage denim would be quite an understatement. Calling it love wouldn't be fair because it's too important for us to call it just that. But what is selvage denim, and what makes it so unique? For the layman, it's a white stripe with colored, contrasting yarns woven into the outseam of someone's cuffed jeans. To others, it is craftsmanship at its finest – the pinnacle of denim engineering.

All denim fabrics are woven on weaving looms. The yarns running from top to bottom are called the warp, and the yarns running from side to side are called weft. The interlocking of warp and weft is what creates the weave. In essence, all weaves are created equal; selvage denim is produced on old shuttle looms. One single thread pushed back and forth on the loom, in continuous motion, creating a self-bound edge on both sides. That's why it's sometimes referred to as selvedge denim or, in some cases, self-edge denim.

So, the self-bound edge is a beautiful detail, but it also keeps the fabric edges from fraying. For jeans, the selvage is mainly used for the outseam since it can be secured with a single seam alone, making it great from a construction perspective. As a technical term, the selvage is actually used for all woven fabrics.

The contrasting yarn in the selvage is called selvage-ID. The color of the contrasting yarn was a signature telling which denim mill had made the fabric and for that mill to differentiate the weaves they produced. Today the most commonly used color is red but, at Nudie Jeans, we have our very own orange selvage ID. In a nod to history, we also opt for various other colors internally, especially for the limited runs but also for the running. For example, "Dry Selvage" features an orange ID, while "Dry Ace" carries a Sakura ID.

So, is selvage denim superior to non-selvage denim? Given its historical significance, and since it is a part of our heritage, we will always hold selvage denim in higher regard than non-selvage denim. Because in all aspects, it's true craftsmanship. The process is slower and the output lower, which is reflected in the price tag. Add to that machinery, which may sometimes be more than 100 years old and needs a lot of maintenance. Then you need artisans who know their way around these looms. The mills that produce selvage denim have an incredible eye for detail, which becomes evident in the fabrics – both in the dry state of the fabric but even more so once they are worn in.

So, we won't claim selvage denim is superior based on technical qualities. Still, we will argue that it, in most cases, possesses more excellent aesthetic qualities. And for that reason alone, we regard selvage as the finest denim there is.

Our heritage 13.75 oz. selvage denim that has been with us since day one. It's made by the almighty Kaihara, Fukuyama, Hiroshima Prefecture, Japan. The Dry Selvage is known for its unmistakable stiffness and mesmerizing blend of green and redcast aging trajectory. It comes with our very own orange selvage ID, and we proudly offer it in multiple fits.

Okayama prefecture is the birthplace of Japanese denim, and micro-mill Shinya in Kojima embodies denim craftsmanship to the fullest extent. This 14.2 oz. selvage denim features a deeply saturated pure indigo tone and a rustic ring spin character. Dry Ace is a true testament to Shinya’s artisanal craftsmanship, and we proudly offer it in multiple fits. Dry Ace comes with Sakura selvage-ID.

A pitch-black 12.75 oz. stretch selvage denim woven by our longtime partner Bossa, in Adana, Türkiye. Both warp and weft have been yarn-dyed with sulfur black, rendering a black denim that ages with high contrast. The slubby yarns render a salt and peppery grain and streaky texture that makes this denim widely different from regular black denim. Dry Black Selvage features an orange selvage-ID.

A robust 15 oz. rigid Italian selvage denim woven on vintage Ruti shuttle looms by Candiani in Lombardy, Italy. The Twilight Selvage features a pure-indigo dyed warp with a unique brilliant super blue hue and subtle redcast, reminiscent of twilight skies. The slightly irregular ring-spun yarns and dense fabric ensure that the denim ages beautifully, rendering a slight vertical streakiness and marble texture. Candiani employs a special dyeing technique allowing very superficial absorption of dye, giving the Twilight Selvage its fast-fading property. Twilight Selvage features a red selvage ID.

A deep dark 13.5 oz. stretch selvage denim woven by our longtime partner Bossa, in Adana, Türkiye. It’s been dyed in indigo and sulfur to a very deep, almost black, tone, features slubby ringspun yarns, and a slight crosshatch texture. It ages to a greyish greencast shade and renders pronounced salt and pepper grain. Dry True Selvage features a red selvage-ID.

A textural 13 oz. stretch selvage from the almighty Kaihara, in Fukuyama, Hiroshima Prefecture, Japan. It is constructed from slubby yarns and woven with a very 3-dimensional texture that renders mesmerizing salt and pepper effects. Added to that it has been dyed in pure indigo to a deep tone that ages with impeccable grace. Dry Japan Selvage features our very own orange ID.

Developed in close collaboration with Japanese denim powerhouse Kurabo, the Dry Apex Selvage is a 13.5 oz. stretch selvage denim. Woven on vintage Toyoda shuttle looms, this vintage-inspired fabric combines the rustic charm of '50s denim with the modern comfort of stretch. The deep-tone indigo warp, distinctive yarn slub, and slightly 'hairy' surface create a texture reminiscent of vintage deadstock denim. Apex Selvage features a navy selvage-ID.

A textural 15 oz. coldcast black selvage denim woven by Europe’s denim expert Candiani, in Milano, Lombardy, Italy. With a special coldcast sulfur-dyed black warp and a black indanthrene-dyed weft, this black selvage is special, both due to the coldcast but also as it is dyed to age quickly and with very high contrasts. The denim is heavy, dense, and crispy rendering highly contrasting wear and slub effects, so much so that it actually reflects the rapidness of which indigo denim ages. Dry Onyx Selvage features a red selvage-ID.

An 18 oz. Japanese rigid selvage denim from the esteemed Kaihara Mills. This heavyweight denim, originally released by us as a limited edition in 2015, is renowned for its heavy weight, rugged texture, deep pure-indigo tone, and immensely beautiful aging trajectory. Woven from coarse ringspun yarns on vintage Toyoda shuttle looms, the Dry Gravity Selvage is stiff and dense, offering a unique visual and tactile experience. This denim exemplifies Kaihara's mastery of both selvage weaving and indigo dyeing, making it one of the absolute best denims we have ever used. Gravity Selvage features our very own Nudie Jeans orange selvage ID.

A 12.75 oz. rigid Italian selvage denim woven on vintage Ruti shuttle looms by Candiani in Lombardy, Italy. Made from undyed organic cotton, the Ivory Selvage features irregular yarns with varying slub lengths, creating a vintage-like surface texture and rustic aesthetic. Despite its almost white appearance, and while it lacks dye-related aging, the complex texture and tactile quality make the Ivory Selvage a remarkable denim, showcasing Candiani's expertise in vintage shuttle loom weaving. Ivory Selvage features a unique double red selvage ID.

A classic 13 oz. selvage denim, woven on vintage Picanol shuttle looms by our longtime partner Bossa in Adana, Türkiye. Dyed in pure natural indigo to achieve a deep, rich tone, it showcases a well-balanced texture with short to medium slubs, aging with a subtle streakiness and marbled effect. A selvage option that delivers exceptional value. The Dry Dusk Selvage features a neat, all-white selvage ID.

A worn-in pair of selvage jeans showed up in our Repair Shop. We traced it back to 2005, but the denim was a mystery. So we asked Kaihara to remake it: 14 oz, rigid, green cast. A recreation of a mystery.

The Space Black Selvage is crafted from a rigid 13 oz 3/1 twill in a deep, crisp black tone and brought to life by the legendary Italian denim mill, Candiani, located in the green fields of Robecchetto con Induno outside of Milan. We’ve had the pleasure of developing some incredible fabrics with Candiani, and this one fits right in with the others.

This fabric occupies a unique space between the non-fading Everblack and traditional black selvage denim known for high-contrast fades. Woven on vintage Ruti shuttle looms from slightly irregular yarns with medium-long slubs, it is a perfected ring-spun denim with just a touch of traditional denim imperfection. Both warp and weft yarns are indanthrene yarn-dyed, creating a pitch-black denim designed to age slowly and evenly. The weft has been dyed pure black, which surprisingly adds depth to what might otherwise appear uniform, and antique silver trims offer a quiet contrast, further highlighting the rich blackness of the fabric.

Despite its 13 oz weight, the fabric feels soft in its dry state. With wear, time, and washing, it will develop an even softer hand while maintaining its clean, sharp look. As the denim gradually evolves, it offers increased comfort and smooth transitions between deep black tones.

Let us introduce you to the densest gathering of selvage looms in Europe. Welcome — or rather, welcome back — to Milan, Italy, where our dear friend Candiani operates an impressive number of vintage “Ruti” shuttle looms. These now scarce looms were produced in Switzerland around the 1950s. Needless to say, the combination of vintage mechanical Swiss technology, Candiani’s finesse in denim, and their long tradition and technical know-how makes for some exceptionally crafted and reliable selvage denim.

Introducing our new entry-level selvages: the 13 oz rigid Lightning Selvage and the 13.8 oz stretch Ohm Selvage — both sewn with Nudie Jeans orange thread and featuring navy back pocket embroideries. Both impeccably crafted selvages feature a blackish-indigo warp created through sulfur-black bottom dye and indigo top dye — yes, just like Kaihara Dry Selvage — but with a white weft that produces a cleaner, deeply dark indigo-blue denim. Woven from ring-spun yarns with short slubs, they showcase a balanced texture — a neat and tidy look — making them perfect entry points to quality selvage denim. Priced slightly above our previous entry-level selvages, these are quality Italian-made selvage denims that do not disappoint. Looking up to Kaihara Dry Selvage and Dry Japan, Lightning and Ohm are more easily digested, cleaner, and not as irregular — or “intriguing,” whichever word you prefer. We are very proud to now offer Candiani selvage as our entry level. Va bene, grazie.